Cheap Eats

Cheap Eats: Schnitzel Works

When I first walked through the door of Schnitzel Works, I thought it looked like a 1960s dining lounge. But no, that’s not quite it. I recalled a restaurant like this on the outskirts of Prague, heavy on clunky Soviet Bloc decor. And after all, Schnitzel Works’ roots are in Slovakia, a country that after more than 40 years under Soviet rule absorbed that style of sameness so disdainful of style. At least here, a handsome bouquet of flowers always graces the dessert board.

Schnitzel the dish, originally Austrian, is now known from Portugal to Peru, each with their own version. Schnitzel Works takes advantage of such broad dissemination, offering a dozen or more. German Jäger is served with sautéed mushrooms in a nicely seasoned red wine gravy. On a kaiser roll, it’s good, but as part of a platter with spaetzle, it’s even better. Unfortunately, the accompanying braised red cabbage was spiced with one too many cloves. American schnitzel — with onions, tomatoes, lettuce, and pickles — is plainer.

Portions are gigantic, to put it mildly, and meat is tender with a light crust. From Montreal’s bakery Wawel come fine cherry streusel squares.

Soups and salads $3–$9, schnitzel sandwiches $7–$11, perogies $8–$9, platters $16–$40, breakfast $5–$8. Open Monday to Thursday 9 a.m. to 4 p.m., Friday 9 a.m. to 7 p.m., Saturday 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. Closed Sunday.

Schnitzel Works
1400 Cyrville Rd., 613-695-9577