City Bites

SPOTLIGHT: Warm up with comfort food from Jean Albert’s

Chicken and ribs from Jean Albert's. Photo by Miv Fournier.

By Cindy Deachman

Welcome to Jean Albert’s. (Don’t you dare pronounce it the French way — those are English names!) Already known in Hallville, out Osgoode way, for its southern hospitality, this restaurant has recently grown up and moved to Ottawa. Co-owner LeRoy Walden wants to acquaint this town with victuals he recalls his grandmother in Georgia cooking for the whole congregation. So at Jean Albert’s, you’ll find deep-fried chicken (crisp and light), sweet pulled pork, beef chili, corn pancakes (called sweet water cornbread), collard greens, sweet potato pie, and buttermilk pie. One or another of those dishes just has to make you feel good. For LeRoy intends you to leave all worries behind you, there at the threshold. Thank goodness we can count on the other owner, LeRoy’s wife, Jennifer Walden. Someone has to be organized, keep things on the straight and narrow. Upstairs there’s music. On the third Friday of every month, dress up vintage-style and dance at the Cotton Club Lounge. Time to just relax, honeychild, and loosen your tie. Why here’s Ethel Waters now, singing “Oh Daddy.” Best get ready to rumba!

Jean Albert’s, 495 Somerset St. W., 613-569-5326.