DesBrisay Dines

WEEKLY LUNCH PICK: Handmade dumplings (three ways!) at Kim’s Restaurant

Fill me up: Kim's Restaurant (which replaces Mrs. Le's) has switched the focus from the predominantly Vietnamese fare served at Mrs. Le's to mainly Chinese cuisine. Anne DesBrisay sampled three kinds of dumplings

By Anne DesBrisay

A renovation closed 1766 Carling Avenue for four months. The grand reopening last fall revealed the long-running Mrs Le’s Vietnamese Restaurant (now missing its front deck, exchanged for an interior addition) had a menu that included Thai dishes.

Mrs. Le had a new chef from Bangkok, you see, and just as we were developing a serious fondness for the red curry of tilapia and the deep fried tofu-wrapped purses of pork and shrimp (and always the house pho in all its various permutations) seemingly overnight the Mrs Le’s sign came down and a “Kim’s Restaurant” sign went up. Mrs. Le retired, we were told.

Kim’s has decluttered a bit, but this is otherwise the same post-renovation space. They’ve filled the built-in shelving units with Chinese objets d’art and the menu with Peking duck and moo-shu pork and egg drop soup. There is still a lengthy Vietnamese section and still a bit of Thai fare (always, the must-have pad thai) but the bulk of the long menu is now Chinese.

The “Handmade Dumplings (6)” caught my eye — available in two styles: steamed, stuffed with minced pork and vegetable, or the same noodle bundles pan-fried and served with “chef sauce.”

Might I possibly have both? Two of each, say?


They made a fast and satisfying lunch, the pale, thin cases plumped with a well-seasoned filling, three of them still soft and slippery, and three others crisp-skinned, scattered with scallions.

The new Kim’s was two weeks old when I lunched here. There will be time to delve deeper into the exhaustingly long menu in due course.

Cost: for six dumplings, $5.75

Open: daily from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.

Kim’s Restaurant, 1766 Carling Ave., 613-798-5697.