DesBrisay Dines

WEEKLY LUNCH PICK: Upgrade your brown bag lunch at Whalesbone Fish Supply

Gorgeous chunks of smoked swordfish make this a transcendent brown bag sandwich.

So, school’s back in session and the lunch-packing grind is ramping up again. While you may be tying yourself in knots to come up with the perfect litterless, unscented, nut-free, nutritionally sound, picky-palate-proof lunch for the kids, at least you can find comfort in knowing there’s a brown bag lunch with your name on it on Kent Street.

The Whalesbone fish supply/warehouse (not to be confused with the restaurant on Bank Street) offers three different sandwiches each day (in two sizes) featuring their delicious sustainable stuff from the sea or lake. If this was a different kind of city, this is the kind of food you’d get from one of those hipster-driven, drool-inducing food trucks that seem to have taken over the Food Network this season.

So squint when you stroll into the Whalesbone shop and try and imagine this as the Whalesbone-mobile (I’m sure they’d come up with something with a double entendre). Step up to the “window” and order off the blackboard. Last week there was breaded halibut, fried haddock and … drumroll please … smoked swordfish with caramelized onions and caper aioli. I thought their smoked tuna was the single most delicious thing I’d eaten in a sandwich … now I’m not so sure.

A few minor quibbles: too many capers and too much jalapeno Tabasco — I love the zippy flavours, but these ones, sloppily applied, started to overpower the sweet, smoky, beautiful flavour of the fish. The bun wasn’t as fresh as I would’ve liked, either. And it would be nice to see an ingredient list for the side containers of coleslaw and potato salad sitting in the bottom of the beverage fridge.

Not that I’m checking anyone’s homework.

Oh, and peanut butter cookies are available for dessert. There’s another thing you’ll never see in a kid’s brown bag.

Whalesbone Sustainable Oyster & Fish Supply, 514 Kent St. 613-231-3474.

Takeaway Brownbag lunch: Tuesday- Saturday, 11 a.m. – 2 p.m.