If you pack enough stuff in a gyro (pronounced “ghee-ro”), the spiced and rotisserie-roasted ‘mystery’ meat usually found in the flatbread-wrapped package becomes merely the warm vehicle for the delivery of other elements: tomatoes, onions, parsley, and garlic and yogurt sauce. At least that was my experience when I lived off gyros as a university student in Kingston. I can count on one hand the number I’ve had since then. And “then” wasn’t yesterday, if you know what I mean.

Gyro is the hotdog of Greek fast food. Filling, addictive, affordable. I was talked into trying the lunch gyro – “The spit-fired pork is best; you’ll not regret it!” – at EVOO Greek Kitchen in Little Italy, the handsome restaurant on Preston Street I’m liking more and more each visit.

She was quite right. I regretted not a bit of it.

The pork, which was tender, juicy and beautifully seasoned, was tucked into quality flatbread along with ripe tomato, red onion, and Italian parsley, all smeared with the tangy house tzatziki. For $11, it came with the house wedge potatoes. For 4 bucks more, I added a Greek salad that was improved once I muddled all the ingredients together, breaking up the feta to lend some salt to the vegetables, and tearing off bits of the banana pepper for a welcome hit of heat.

EVOO Greek Kitchen, 438 Preston Street, 613-695-3860