When I first set foot in Beckta’s back room wine bar, I loved everything about it but the food. Service was attentive, drinks delicious, the wine list a pleasure, and the room itself inviting and elegant — a modern set in a vintage frame.

But the food? It just didn’t grab me. Mistakes were made, as they say, and the menu didn’t seem to fit the room.

But these were the very early days of late winter and things were clearly still in the ‘being-worked-out’ phase.

Whatever the rethink the kitchen has done since then, and if we can judge the latest one on the two dishes tried two weeks ago, it’s been a good one.

How to resist the simple, decadent pleasure of devilled eggs whipped with black truffle oil and sprinkled with Maldon salt? Served with microgreens and sliced Roma tomatoes (from the rooftop garden perhaps?) “These,” my friend announced “are crack eggs,” and she ordered another round.

I would have ordered another handful of the dill-flecked, lightly salted potato chips that came with a pink puck of salmon tartare, the nuggets of cool fish deliciously seasoned, studded with capers and shallots.

The other news is that the no-reservations policy has been lifted, and the bar bites are bolstered with a short menu of affordable mains, yet to be mined by me. (I’ll report back soon.)

Beckta’s wine bar menu is available from 2pm to close, Monday through Friday and from 5pm to close on weekends. 150 Elgin St., 613-238-7063