ANNE’S PICKS: Delighting in fish — two ways — at Le Resto
DesBrisay Dines

ANNE’S PICKS: Delighting in fish — two ways — at Le Resto

Fried bliss: Le Resto's fish and chips is known to be among the best in the region

By Anne DesBrisay

It took dull, dogged discipline to look past the signature fish and chips, and drift down to the bottom of the page where floundered a dish of steamed cod. But point to it I did, with teeth-gritted determination. My doc had made me promise that I would eat less fat. This, for God sake, thanks to blood work done the morning after an evening of sumptuous food-judging at the Gold Medal Plates. The results were surely skewed, I complained, by all those rich little treats with wines to match… a bit of beer, too… don’t forget the beer. I think it’s fair to say she had little sympathy.

So here we are, my friend and I, at Le Resto in Chelsea, on a sunny Saturday afternoon. We are seated at one of the window tables, the blinds down a bit to block the parking lot view and keep the November sun from boiling our wine. We’ve gone for a two-hour hike in the hills. We order: she, the aforementioned fish & chips, known (not just by me) to be among the best in the region; I, the very-good-for-me-but-not-very-exciting steamed cod.

Spice world: Given that no deep frying was involved, Anne DesBrisay was pleasantly surprised by how much she enjoyed her cod with chorizo in a spicy tomato sauce

She, without doubt, was thrilled with her deep-fried plate. And I had just a morsel. And one fry. Okay, two. Enough to tell you, with some assertion, that Le Resto’s fish and chips remains a superb rendition, the crunchy batter light, the fish thick and moist, the chips moreish and the minted pea mush a fun riff on that classic combo.

And I? Well I was thoroughly pleased with my cod, with chorizo, cooked in a spicy tomato sauce pungent with garlic, capers, and olives, and topped with a softly cooked egg.

We eschewed dessert. Had mint tea. She waddled out (sorry dear, but you did), and I more or less skipped.

Cost: $12 for the fish and chips (one piece) and $16 for the cod.

Hours: Open every day but Tuesday, for lunch and dinner.

Le Resto, Chelsea Plaza, 528 Route 105, Chelsea, 819-827-5559.