DESBRISAY DINES: The Dish List of 2014
DesBrisay Dines

DESBRISAY DINES: The Dish List of 2014

Two Six {Ate}
Bangers from Two Six {Ate}

Le Baccara’s ginger and lemongrass poached lobster
This was one of the loveliest dishes of 2014. It arrived somewhere toward the front of a menu degustation that rocked from the first bite to the final mignardises (a.k.a. treats to soften the blow of the bill). But this is the dish that stayed with me: poached lobster, the tail and claw juicy and yielding, scented with lemongrass and smeared lightly with ginger paste. It came supported with beet-stained rounds of daikon and a salad of julienned radish, green papaya, carrot, and snow peas. Providing some salty pop, B.C.’s Northern Divine caviar was spooned onto a taro-root chip. The quivering mound of white on the plate, topped with a green chiffonade of nori, turned out to be coconut milk foam, while orange dobs of yuzu and ginger gelée delivered a brilliant flavour bomb. Magnifique! Le Baccara, 1 boul. du Casino, Gatineau, 819-772-6210.

Les Fougères’ duck confit
The textbook-perfect bistro dish? You bet. Charles Part’s confit of Quebec moulard duck ticks every box. There’s fat where fat ought to be — no more, no less — while the flesh beneath the crisped, bronzed skin is rich, tender, and deliciously moist. The duck comes with precisely what you’d want it to come with: crackling rösti potato, soft rings of wine-poached pear, a hefty spoon of Ferme Floralpe goat cheese, and a toss of lightly wilted spinach. A partridgeberry gastrique with candied orange rind lends a fruity finish. Bravo! Les Fougeres, 783, rte. 105, Chelsea, 819-827-8942.

Two Six {Ate} bangers
Sausages — even the ones handcrafted with loving attention — are invariably too salty. Not a bit here; Two Six {Ate}’s house-made sausages are exceptional. They burst in the mouth with juice and flavour and the weight of well-judged spices, and the hand that cranks the salt grinder shows admirable restraint. Two Six {Ate}, 268 Preston St., 613-695-8200.