By Anne DesBrisay
Although it’s been a few years since the culinary gentrification of this corner of the city began in earnest, it still must be startling for Hintonburg’s old timers to see the steady flow of well-dressed uptowners stopping in for a bite — to see Volvos where Volvos never parked before.
I’m trying to remember the order of things. It seems to me Tennessy Willems, Burnt Butter, Alpha Soul, and Back Lane launched the foodie revolution in this hood. Then came this place, the Hintonburg Public House, shortly thereafter in late 2011.
I have been a few times to the HPH for an evening meal, but hadn’t stopped in for lunch. So I found a friend — whose Volvo has heated seats necessary for an unneccessarily cold day in June — and remedied this.
My friend had the beet salad, which was good enough — with Boston lettuce and pickled fennel, a nice vinaigrette — but nothing too memorable. My club sandwich, on the other hand, was a superior rendition of the classic – well seasoned, incredibly moist chicken, with yummy bacon, tomato, lettuce, a full flavoured aioli (but not memorable enough to remember if it was lemon scented — methinks it was so) on lightly toasted white bread, served with over seasoned chips.
Great texture, great flavour. But here’s the thing: that sandwich cost me $16. Seems to me, unless you’re captive in an airport lounge, or the chicken’s a Poulet de Bresse and the bacon’s flecked with gold dust, nobody — particularly a neighbourhood Public House — should be charging that much for a club sandwich.
Here’s hoping the Hintonburg Pub comes up with some affordable lunch items.What the old timers must make of a $16 club isn’t worth repeating in polite — and gentrified — company.
Open: Monday to Friday, 11:30 a.m. to 2 a.m.; Saturday and Sunday, 11 a.m. to 2 a.m.
Hintonburg Public House, 1020 Wellington St. W., 613-421-5087.