DesBrisay Dines

WEEKLY LUNCH PICK: Head to Preston Street for Kiko Sushi Bar’s bento box

The vegetarian bento box included salted edamame, asparagus uramake rolls, marinated and spiced tofu, a pile of rice, and veggie tempura

By Anne DesBrisay

Preston Street was mired in roadwork for what seemed like forever, but I sat in the sun on the results of the construction the other day, and from my perch in the sun, it all seemed pretty solidly worthwhile.

This was my first time on a Preston patio since the sidewalks were built. Set back a ways from the road, wide enough to allow patios and umbrellas, a fence festooned with flowers, and space still for walking and people watching, I was on the fou-year-old Kiko Sushi Bar‘s terrace, on one of those rare days of sunshine in mid-June, in the mood for a quick, light lunch.

If you want something a bit obscure — ohitashi or umi or mirugai — you’ll have to order a la carte, and Kiko can deliver (in past experience, it delivers with some style) but if it’s an in and out lunch you need, the menu for that is pretty straightforward.

Anne DesBrisay was particularly taken with the delicate squares of marinated and spiced tofu

I opted for the vegetarian bento box. It began with miso soup and as miso soups go this was a successful version, tasting of a homemade dashi broth. And then came the lacquered box, its compartments filled in with salted edamame, asparagus uramake (inside out) rolls, delightfully delicate squares of marinated and spiced tofu, a pile of rice, and veggie tempura. In their lightweight tempura jackets, came slices of eggplant, sweet potato and zucchini: crunchy treats, all, perfect for watching the Preston Street parade go by.

Cost: bento box $11

Open: Monday to Saturday for lunch, daily for dinner.

Kiko, 349 Preston St., 613-695-3143.