Les Fougères has been serving an inimitable duck confit since the days the doors opened 25 years ago. A plump leg with a satisfyingly fatty, crispy skin arrives. It sits atop a stack of fresh baby spinach leaves and a crunchy potato bird’s nest stuffed with a creamy smear of soft white goat cheese. A few slivers of poached pear and a tart cranberry sauce offer sweet and acid notes while a whiff of fresh thyme adds an unexpected sensory bonus. It’s a winner worth crossing the river for. $36

— Les Fougères, 783, rte. 105, Chelsea