You could call it an oasis, but it’s more of a mirage. Like a lake for travellers in the desert, Aperitivo is more than one could ever dare to dream of finding in the big-box brutality of Kanata Centrum. Yet here it is: an inviting spot for a glass of wine, some fun cocktails — it’s date-night central — and a thoughtful small-plates menu. It keeps getting better, with charming service, cozy ambience, and a long bar leading to the pint-sized open kitchen. Judging by the good eating, it’s led by a resourceful cook with a cosmopolitan appetite and keen commitment to top-quality ingredients. On a dreary afternoon in July, we were presented with a life-affirming caprese salad of tomatoes from Acorn Creek Garden Farm (“just up the road from here”) that I will dream about until next summer. There was no bread for mopping up the juicy guts on the plate because, I would then discover, this restaurant aims to be gluten-free. Aperitivo, named for the glorious Italian tradition of pre-dinner snacking and socializing, is proof that inventive dining options exist in the burbs. 655 Kanata Ave., Unit L2., 613-592-0004
