If the instant popularity of an upbeat and charming new bistro across the river is any indication, our Gatineau neighbours are feeling proud. Here is a place where a team of first-time restaurateurs uses food and drink to celebrate their heritage and the creations of local artisanal food producers. The name CoqLicorne pays homage to a whimsical work of art by celebrated Gatineau artist Jean Dallaire that portrays a mythical love child between a rooster (coq) and a unicorn. Long-time local waitress Martine Boucher, along with Emmanuel Croteau-Benoit and Isabel Thériault, who worked for the edgy Outaouais arts festival, are the trio behind the feisty new hangout in the heart of Old Hull. Gastronomes should not be misled — this is simple, honest eating, featuring fresh salads, sandwiches, and a variety of grilled dishes. It’s a place where things such as pulled-pork nachos or lemonade made of muddled fresh citrus are treated with respect. Suppliers are neighbours: William J. Walter sausages, Ferme aux Saveurs des Monts chicken, teas from Cha Yi, and treats from Miss Chocolat. Three kinds of microbrews by the bottle hail from Montreal, Saint-Eustache, and Joliette. Tasty L’Eisbock de L’Alchimiste beer finds its way into the French onion soup. Fall-off-the-bone barbecue ribs are named after 19th-century French-Canadian strong man Jos Montferrand. In an age of globalized food culture, it’s refreshing to have a taste of local legends and lore. That goes for restaurants at either end of the Champlain Bridge. 59, rue Laval, Gatineau (Hull sector), 819-205-4344
