The Elmdale Oyster House is part of the Whalesbone family that has made us the capital of oyster envy and ambassadors of hook-to-plate dining. Feeding the souls of homesick Maritimers and promoting endless urban hootenannies are at the top of the job descriptions for Joshua Bishop and Peter McCallum. The lifelong buddies partnered in the takeover of The Elmdale, a nearly 80-year-old tavern, and returned it to its former glory as a watering hole and live-music venue. By making minimal changes — enough to make the room feel welcoming as a place to eat and, frankly, less creepy as a hangout for the fairer sex — The Elmdale continues to fit into Hintonburg just fine. The installation of a magnificent wraparound 24-seat bar anchors the room and makes it a pleasant place for friends and strangers to pull up, day or night, for a pint, a lobster roll, and a bit of banter with some of the most charismatic staff in town. Executive chef Chloe Berlanga channelled her summer vacations to seaside Maine when designing the menu, which continues to evolve. In subtle ways, it is rougher around the edges than its Bank Street brother, but one thing remains consistent: bivalves rule. 1084 Wellington St. W., 613-728-2848
