A passionate cook first and foremost, Steve Wall has had an intense kitchen career at the helm of Whalesbone, Town, and Luxe kitchens that has no doubt made him aware of the microeconomics of the city’s food industry. He seems keenly aware of what the local market can bear when it comes to casual yet refined restaurant dining. Unlike so many of his peers in the business, however, he just keeps raising the bar. He doesn’t ask, What does Ottawa want? He asks, What does Ottawa need? In spite of the restaurant’s name, Wall appears to place the most value on things that cannot be measured in dollars and cents: the blood and sweat that go into the plate, the paramount importance of treating ingredients properly (he wraps fish in linen at the end of the night), and the camaraderie among cooks inspired to share the same level of commitment. Before opening, he whisked his staff off to New York and set them up with apprenticeships at the restaurants he most admires, including Mario Batali’s Esca, a temple of pasta and piscatory delights. Back at home, he has created what feels like the capital city’s most modern dining experience to date. Wall makes visually stunning, labour-intensive, powerfully flavoured food that may be a first-time amalgam of Acadian sensibilities and southern Italian soul. 1335 Wellington St. W., 613-680-2949
