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Finding Fair Fish: Ottawa Magazine food writer Anne DesBrisay looks for shops where you can be sure the swimmers you buy are fished or farmed in an ecologically sustainable manner — and happen to taste good.
1. Whalesbone Sustainable Oyster and Fish Supply and The Whalesbone Oyster House
Both wholesale and retail, the shop (purveyors of the best fish sammiches in town) and the little oyster house have made sustainable swimmers sexy. 504 Kent St., 613-231-3474; 430 Bank St., 613-231-8569.

2. Wellington Wholesale Seafood
A relative newcomer to the fair-fish supply, this seafood spot is found in Hintonburg and is focused mostly on wholesale, but there’s always stuff on ice for the gal off the street. Norwegian salmon, Arctic char, Patagonian shrimp, day-boat scallops, sushi-grade yellowfin tuna. 1105 Wellington St. W., 613-759-4141.
3. Wilfrid’s
The elegant dining room at the Fairmont Château Laurier has always been ahead of its time in terms of showcasing local and Canadian product, and its commitment to its Ocean Wise certification is just as leading-edge. 1 Rideau St., 613-241-1414.
4. Restaurant E18hteen/ Social
Two ByWard Market beauties, sister restaurants, both with strong kitchens and Ocean Wise stamps dotting their menus. Try the signature lacquered B.C. black cod at E18hteen or the crispy-skinned trout with black garlic purée at Social. 18 York St, 613-244-1188; 537 Sussex Dr., 613-789-7355.
5. Juniper Kitchen & Wine Bar
Devoted to serving sustainable seafood from waters as close to home as landlocked Ottawa can muster. Chef-owners Norm Aitken and Peter Robblee’s “campfired” Arctic char with beet sauce is spectacular. 245 Richmond Rd., 613-728-0220.
