DesBrisay Dines

WEEKLY LUNCH PICK: Digging into dim sum at Mandarin Ogilvie

Dim sum primer: Pace yourself! Anne DesBrisay cautions against succumbing to over-pointing-eagerness at the start, so easily done when you're driven by hunger.

By Anne DesBrisay

Dim Sum is one of the finest, funnest and fastest ways of filling up. Particularly if you arrive early and can snag a table right away. Tea arrives, and the bossy trolleys begin their pass-by within seconds of you settling yourself.

Your job is to indicate the steaming baskets and small bowls that appeal, succumbing not to over-pointing-eagerness at the start, so easily done when driven by hunger. That, and the reluctance to refuse the nice trolley ladies any of their wares. (Women tend to do the driving here. Men seat you, bring tea, and the bill.)

But if you don’t save some room for what tends to come toward the end of the parade (the taro dumplings, say, with their mad scientist wig around a soft, rich filling; or the delicate egg custard tarts) you’ll find yourself flagging 10 minutes after you’ve arrived.

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