By ANNE DESBRISAY

I can’t think of a single open kitchen in this region where the view is of chefs in a monogrammed white jacket and traditional hundred pleat toque. Most everywhere, if you do get a peek into the back, the worker bees are in tees. A skull cap keeps the locks in place. Maybe a bandana.
Not a bit of that at Le Baccara. The fine dining restaurant of the Casino du Lac-Leamy is now in a class of its own. All the others of its haute French ilk have disappeared.
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