WEEKLY LUNCH PICK: Pork souvlaki pita and Café Frappé cheesecake at the Nutty Greek Bake Shop
DesBrisay Dines

WEEKLY LUNCH PICK: Pork souvlaki pita and Café Frappé cheesecake at the Nutty Greek Bake Shop

Fast-food done right, but save room for dessert

The Place: When the Nutty Greek Bake Shop opened up on Rochester Street in Little Italy, I raved about the honey-drenched, (wal)nutty sweets, especially the baklava cheesecake. I was also impressed with the warm character of the place created by the Papadopoulos family. I have since fallen head-over-heels for their Loukoumades, traditional honey doughnuts, which are made fresh to order and served warm. ‘Nuff said. Oh, right, and they serve lunch too.

The Deal: Here is the place to find the ultimate combination of hot and homemade fast-food. There are various warm phyllo pastry rolls ready to go, including classic spinach and feta as well as a different soup each day — cream of leek and potato; beef barley; cream of chicken rice; cream of broccoli; and split pea. Fresh salads are made up and ready to go too. And then there’s the warm pita sandwiches that take just a moment to assemble: gyro, chicken, or pork. I believe Greek meatballs also make an appearance on the menu.

The Dish: The pork tenderloin souvlaki is super tender, nicely seasoned chunks of meat, flecked with oregano and wrapped up in a warm, grilled pita with homemade tzatziki (even the yoghurt is made here). Tomatoes and chopped romaine can be added, as well as onions and hot peppers. I ordered a Greek garden salad on the side (it has lettuce, while the Greek Village does not) and — feeling nutty — I crumbled some of the feta cheese onto my sandwich.

Saving room for dessert is a must; take your pick. I tried the new Café Frappé cheesecake made with dark Greek coffee on a thick nutty dark chocolate cookie crust. I will never be able to choose a cheesecake there again without a game of eeny-meeny-miny-moe. They are all fabulous.

The Cost: pork souvlaki, $5.99; Garden Greek salad $3.99; small cheesecake $5.

Nutty Greek Bake Shop, 490 Rochester St., 613-680-0806.

Hours: Monday to Friday (lunch served weekdays), 9 a.m. – 7 p.m., Saturday, 9 a.m. – 6 p.m.